Balkan Burek

“Börek” kelimesi Balkan dillerine Türkçeden gelmiştir. Madem bu kelime Türkçedir, o zaman börek de Türk’tür. Ama “Balkan Burek” derseniz iş değişir, o başka bir şeydir.

Makedonya’da bir tartışma programı vardır, yıllardır özel bir kanalda yayınlanıyor. Programın adı, “Yadi Burek” (Börek Ye). Güncel konular değerlendirilir, halk canlı bağlantı kurarak kendi düşüncelerini söyler bu programda. Canlı yayın olduğu için her türlü olayla karşılaşabilir sunucu. Siyasi bir konu tartışılıyorsa, Arnavut’u arar Türk’ü arar Makedon’u arar, derken bazı konular tiye alınır, farklı bir bakış açısıyla çok da ciddiye alınmayacak ama insanların kendi düşüncesini söyleyen bir program halini alır. Konum, program içeriği ya da neler tartışıldığı da değil aslında. Benim konum börek. Neden böreğin yanında siyaset?

Birincisi, gerçekten bu toprakları anlamak için öncelikle en az iki Balkan dilini bilmeniz gerek; çoğu birbirine benzediği için farklı ülkelerdekilerle de anlaşabilirsiniz. İngilizcem var derseniz tek başına hiç bir şey ifade etmez, muhabbet edersiniz etmesine ama muhabbeti anlayamazsınız. Sadece Türkçe bilseniz de hiç sorun teşkil etmez; aç kalmazsınız, yolda kalmazsınız. Ama bütün burada yaşayan halkın tam anlamıyla derdini anlayamazsınız. Taksiye bindiniz diyelim, şoförün hangi milletten olduğunu nasıl anlayacaksınız, hangi dilde selam vereceksiniz? Ben anlayabilirim, benim için sorun değil, radyo açıksa, hangi dilde bir frekans seçmiş bakarsınız, hangi firmanın taksisi ona da bakarsınız. Bir “merhaba” derseniz de istediğiniz yere ulaşabilirsiniz o da sorun değil.

Taksiciler caddelerin, sokakların nabzını en iyi bilir. Seçimler yakınsa, en doğru anketi araştırmana da gerek yoktur, onlara sor anlarsın seçim sonuçlarını. İşe taksiyle gidip gelen biriyim, bizde öyle uçuk fiyat tarifesi de yoktur, her yer birbirine uzak olmadığı için de sorun teşkil etmez. Her hafta yazan biri olarak da her milletten herkesle muhabbet ederim, gerçek gündemi sadece haber bültenlerinden anlayamazsınız burada. Trafik yoğunluğundan konuşan biri mutlaka konuyu belediye başkanına kadar götürür. Hangi belediye daha çalışkan onlar mutlaka bunu bilir. Çok milletli, çok kültürlü bir toplumda yaşıyorsan hele, ülkeler arası diplomatik ilişkiler yanında sönük kalır, gerçek halkın nabzını bu yolda yoklarsın. Benim telefonum çalar, arayan annemse -tabii annemle de Türkçe konuştuğuma göre- konu bellidir: “Sen Türk’sün demek, he he Türkiye, başka…” derler. Türk olduğun için konu döner dolaşır Türkiye’deki güncel konulara gelir.

Türkiye’de yaşayan birçok Balkan “uzmanından” çok daha şanslıyım bu konuda. Birbirinden çok farklı üç dilde gayet akıcı ve rahat konuşabiliyor, hatta yazabiliyorum. Uzmanlık gibi bir derdim de yok, şair-yazar, sivil toplum derneklerinde toz yutmuş, Türkolog, edebiyatçı, ilhamını bu topraklarda yaşayan insan hallerinden almış, tarihi eserlerin taş duvarlarından beslenebilmiş bir Türkiye aşığıyım. Yaşadığım ülkede bir Türk olarak da kendi hak ve hukukumu aramayı bilirim. Ancak, soluyabildiğim her koku bana ne hissettirmişse onu yazmaya çalışmışımdır. Burada tansiyon hep değişir çünkü. İşte bu yüzden bir tartışma programın ismi “Börek ye” olabilir. Birçok düşünce, her fikir, hatta nüfus bile yıllar geçtikçe değişebiliyor, keyfini kaçırma, derdini söyle ve böreğini yemeye devam et. Türkiye’ye karşı bakış açısı da her yıl değişebiliyor, bazen eleştiriyorlar, oradan dışarıya servis edilen bazı haberler ve oluşturulan algıyı anlatıyorlar, şu aralar olduğu gibi Türkiye’ye toz kondurmadıkları dönemler de oluyor. Elbette buna ülkeler arası siyasi ve diplomatik ilişkilerin de etkisi oluyor. Bütün bu toplumu anlayabilmek ve nelerin değiştiğini görebilmek için siyasi analizlerden çok halkın nabzı ve onları gözlemlemek önemli.

İşte bizler de buradan yereli takip ettiğimizde muhabbetimiz bazen multi-etnik bir hava alabiliyor, bazen de Türk ise karşımızdaki kardeş kardeş dertleşiyoruz. Hepimizin tek ortak noktası var; böreği seviyoruz, eti de, kıymalı börek en ideali bu konuda. Sağlımıza dikkat etmeliyiz ama yine de.

Gelelim böreğin çeşitlerine ve faydalarına. Sabah erkenden uyandın diyelim, buralara ilk kez gelmişsin, kendini dışarıya atmışsın, bir şekilde tarihi Türk çarşısında bulmuşsun kendini. Dükkânların kepenkleri henüz açılmamışken gezmenizi tavsiye ederim burayı. Farklı bir koku hissedersiniz, güzel kokar, sizi evinizde hissettirir, buraları da bizden dedirtir size; Anadolu kokar belki de, bazen de çocukluğunuzu hatırlatır, yabancılık çekmezsiniz. O koku var ya, işte sabahın beşinde uyanan börekçilerin fırınlarından yükselen kokudur. Çok hayalperest olmayalım ama aynı zamanda o koku kaldırımların ve hanların taş duvarlarıyla birleşince hem tarih kokar hem de içinizi sıcak bir his kaplar. Mutlaka her sokak başında bir börekçi vardır, sabah kahvaltısını dışarda yapan esnaf yoğurt-gevrek, peynirli börek ya da “simit poğaça” alır. Gevreklerin en güzeli nohut mayasıyla yapılanıdır burada; Türkiye’deki simitlerden biraz farklıdır ama birbirine benzer. O mayanın kokusu mutlaka çarşıya sinmiştir. Üsküp’ün daha geleneksel Türk ailelerinde ise Cuma günü börek günüdür. Cuma namazından sonra kimde börek varsa onun evine mutlaka bir misafir gelir. Hatta bazen, tepsiyle börekler dükkânlara getirilir, bir bereketi vardır, kalabalık yenir. Günümüzde bu geleneği sürdüren çok aile olmasa da yine de vardır ve bir şekilde devam eder.

Börek demek, sabahın erken saatlerinde gazete okurken kırıntıları gazeteye bulaşan bir aş demektir. Türk, Arnavut, Makedon, Boşnak vs. herkes evinde kendi usulüyle yapar. Fakat dışarda herkes aynı börekçilerden alır böreğini. Gerçi Müslüman kesim sadece sahibi Müslüman olanlardan satın alır, her yağ ve her kıymaya güvenmez. Çınar ağacı altında edilen muhabbetin de içine siner. Ispanaklısı, peynirlisi, kıymalısı, mantısı, samsası dışında günümüzde böreği modernleştirmek için üretilen “pizza börek” de kendini sattırabilen başka bir örnek. Büyük bir eksiğimiz var, börek hamuru yahut börek yufkası (baklava hariç) satan yufkacılarımız yok bizim. Ya hazırını börekçide alacaksın ya da evinde açacaksın.

İşte, “Balkan Burek” dediğimiz zaman, bu iki Türkçe kelimenin içinde birçok farklı milletin geleneği var. Hem tarihi beraberlik hem de herkesin evine ve ocağına girmiş bir aş demek. Bizi birbirimize bağlayan ortak noktalarımızdan çok küçük bir örnek olsa da bu, o böreğin yanında neler konuşulduğu da önemlidir. Nerdeyse bütün bakanlıklarda çalışan devlet memurları bile her sabah önce en yakınındaki börekçiye gider, ulaştırmaymış, ekonomiymiş, savunma ya da içişleri ile dışişleri bakanlığıymış hiç fark etmez, her ofiste bazen bir börek kokusu duyulur ve herkes o sabah kendi dilinde ülkesinde olup bitenler hakkında konuşur. Uzmanmış, analizciymiş hiç fark etmez; aynı masada farklı milletlerden insanlarla börek yemediysen, muhabbet edemediysen Balkanlarda ne kaynadığını, ne gibi dedikodular yayıldığını anlayamazsın.

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